There are times since arriving in Kathmandu that I pinch myself as it's hard to believe my plan is unfolding. 2007 has been an eventful year; from accepting admission at UC Irvine's Merage School of Business and leaving my first full time civilian job at the American Himalayan Foundation (http://www.himalayan-foundation.org/) to gripping the Dalai Lama's hand and shortly thereafter, executing a rather ungraceful fall off of my bike.
To complete my time at AHF, it was important to me observe the projects that I had been helping to market to our donors. When on the other side of the world, pictures, letters, and reports can capture a large amount of a stranger's need for help and their gratefulness for receiving it but that wasn't enough. The drive to connect with some of the people that stared back at me on the computer screen impacted my decision to come here. I worked hard to make sure my move from San Francisco, my trip and school preparation were in order.
Thanks so much to Tsering, Bruce, Norbu, Tsedo, Dorjee, Eileen, Will, Erica, Sarah D., Shannon G. and Ellen with answering my questions, connecting me with your friends and family and providing support for this trip. Thanks so much to Konita for helping me tie up the loose ends before I left and letting me use your place as a mini storage unit.
People who didn't know that much about this area asked, "Where is Nepal and Tibet?" and "Why are you going?" For those of you who haven't been before, I hope this blog is your gateway to the many wonderful attributes and hardships of Nepal and Tibet.
Bruce's observation that Thai Airways is "great in the air but horrible on the ground" as a two hour delay soon became a four hour delay in LAX on August 7th. Each seat on the plane has extra legroom and individual TVscreens; Guru, a Bollywood film, The Namesake, and Becoming Jane (sorry Eilis) were quickly chosen. While the food was decent, it lacked the Qantas character and quality. Arriving in Kathmandu proved to continue the fun from the evening before as my luggage was lost. Thai airlines works really hard to make up for those faults on the ground by providing the nicest customer service in the air and the ground. It's hard to get frustrated with them as they smile warmly and ask how they can help.
Bruce and Raju, Bruce's driver, were waiting to quickly whisk me off to the AHF field office. I received a brief from Eileen before leaving the US and Bruce before we left the parking lot, hence I was well prepared for Nepali road travel. Driving in Rome and Kuwait are an intermediate level of driving compared to the vigilance and skill required to drive in Kathmandu. Even though most cars don't accelerate above 40 kmph (27 mph), the lack of order and concern for safety is unlike western cultures. Imagine pulling up to a four way intersection without stop signs and dodging the other cars as they are trying to cross to the other side as well. It's like a Tetris version of Frogger. Car horns are used similarly to Rules of the Road for driving an ocean going vessel where they use it to warn, signal and in an emergency. For a vehicle to be driven successfully here, all it really needs is an engine and a horn; the rest is just added upgrades.
After my accident I cringe at the sight of cyclists without helmets but in Nepal it seems as though it would be useless to enforce such a rule. Pedestrians, bicycles, motorbikes, motorcycles, cars, taxis, buses, and cargo trucks all share the same tight seven feet width as they weave around each other and many times creating head on situations. The dotted white line is merely a suggestion for traffic to keep within their lanes, not a steadfast law.
The Field Office of AHF is in an hotel in downtown Kathmandu. It wasn't until the second day that I observed the moldy smell that Erica described. The humidity and rain combined together create a moldy stench that never disappears. After leaving work in the evening, Bruce took me to his house that he rents in the Australian Embassy compound which is quite a structure with a living room, dining room, master bedroom, office,and two guest bedrooms. The pungent smell of spices upon arrival was very similar to the officer barracks of the Kuwait Naval Base and my brain quickly registered it as familiar.
Friday, August 10th was a busy day. Bruce took me on a project visit to Child Protection Center and Services (CPCS) which helps street children have a safe haven to sleep and eat and encourages them to go to school or gives them basic schooling. They have a clinic, a mini bank, and there are sectioned off areas to keep the kids at different levels of their reintroduction back into society separate. There are many kids who eventually would like to be reunited with their parents and they could potentially be swayed back to their old ways by the newest kids who recently came in off of the street. Watching Bruce with the children was a delight as he would play around with them. Since they do not receive any physical interaction with adults they responded positively upon contact with him.
Afterwards, we drove outside of Kathmandu to the Hospital and Rehabilitation Center for Disabled Children (HRDC). Run by the amazing Dr. Banskota, the hospital is a life changing place for children who have orthopedic issues ranging from club feet to obstructive shoulder masses. Many parents in Nepal leave their kids at home playing next to the fire while they work in the fields, as there is no child care for the poor. When the kids burn themselves, the traditional Nepali way of curing the burn is to pack it with cow manure and fold the appendage together. In the case of an arm burn, they would fold the forearm in so that the hand would touch the shoulder and tie the arm together. Over time, the skin grows, attaching the forearm to the upperarm, creating contractures. It's a slightly better to have to skin grow rather than die of an infection.
When parents bring their children to HRDC, they are counseled thoroughly on the process. Each child is allowed to have one parent stay with them while they go through the surgery, recovery, and physical therapy which may take months. How many hospitals are like this in America if the patient doesn't have health care?
The passion in the staff to help children in need stood out from visiting these projects. Compared to the hustle of Kathmandu it was refreshing to meet people who genuinely like what they are doing and want to help others.When we returned back to the office, my luggage, thanks to Pema's help, had returned successfully.
That evening Bruce took me out to his favorite Friday night buffet at a hotel. While Nepali food is similar to Indian food, the food we had that evening was different. Bean salads had a kick with local spices which I hope to find out the names of before my return. While the monsoon season is ending in Asia, the rain started that afternoon. Bruce and I chose to sit outside that evening only to be prey to heavy rains. After watching Monsoon Wedding, another film by Mira Nair, it was fun to experience the romantic downpour of a monsoon firsthand while we sat under an umbrella next to a pool.
The next morning I left for Tibet, where I am now, so there is more to come. Stay tuned.
